Petra Jordan Travel Guide: How to Visit the Rose-Red City Without the Crowds

Petra is genuinely one of the world’s most extraordinary places — a Nabataean city carved directly into rose-red sandstone cliffs, hidden in a Jordanian desert canyon. With the right timing and a bit of effort, you can experience it with a sense of wonder intact.

Arriving Early

The site opens at 6am. Being at the main entrance at opening means you’ll walk the Siq — the dramatic 1.2km canyon approach — in near solitude, and reach the Treasury before the first tour buses at 8:30am. This alone is worth the early alarm.

Beyond the Treasury

Most visitors photograph the Treasury (Al-Khazneh) and leave. Petra is enormous — the site extends for kilometres. The Royal Tombs, the Colonnaded Street, the Monastery (Ad Deir), and the High Place of Sacrifice are all spectacular and far less crowded. The Monastery requires a steep hike of about 800 steps — it’s worth every one.

Petra By Night

Petra By Night (Monday, Wednesday, Friday evenings) fills the Siq and Treasury with thousands of candles. It’s atmospheric and beautiful, though the experience is more magical than informative. Book through the main ticket office.

The Petra Back Trail

A much less-used trail enters Petra from the village of Umm Sayhoun behind the Monastery. Locals use it; tourists rarely do. It offers entirely different perspectives on the site and is worth doing on a second day.

Practical Tips

The Jordan Pass (available online) covers the visa fee and Petra entry for multiple days — excellent value. Two days minimum to see Petra properly; three is better. Wear proper shoes and bring more water than you think you’ll need.

Community Tips

The Petra community on Parada has travellers sharing current conditions, the best guesthouses in Wadi Musa (the nearby town), and tips on which trails are currently accessible.